Papua (previously known as Irian
Jaya) is the western half of New Guinea, the world's second-largest island, and
three times larger than Java and Bali combined. This region is mainly
impenetrable jungle where traditional tribes survive harsh conditions and modern
intrusions, though most inhabitants live in and around a few towns along the
coast. Almost all visitors head to the Baliem Valley, home of some of the most
remarkable traditional cultures on earth, while some include a side-trip to
explore the dive sites of WWII relics around Palau Biak (Biak Island). Papua has
a lot more to offer, but it suffers - and will for some time - from limited
transport due to geographic inaccessibility and frustrating government travel
regulations.
HISTORY
Irian Jaya:
The Last Frontier
The first inhabitants of Irian, black skinned
and frizzy haired, first arrived from the west perhaps 60,000 years ago.
While the sea level was considerably lower at the time of man's first
migrations to Australia and New Guinea, there were still stretches of ocean
to cross. Rising seas eventually cut off Australia from New Guinea and led
to the divergent gene pools which now show up in the somewhat different
physical types. Small groups settled along the seashores and short distances
inland, living from hunting, fishing and gathering. There must have been but
slight contact between these groups on what was to merge as the island of
New Guinea. In recent studies, linguists were amazed to learn that on this
island, with only 0.01 per cent of the earth's population, 15 per cent of
the world's languages are spoken. Out of an almost incredible 800 languages
(not dialects), about 550 are found in Papua New Guinea and some 250 in Irian Jaya.
By 4000 B.C., agriculture was well developed,
leading to some population concentration and stable social structure. Then
the next waves of immigration began washing up on Irian's shores. The
newcomers, who originated from south china and dispersed from Taiwan, slowly
spread over a time span of two millennia to populate the Philippines,
Indonesia, Malaysia, Micronesia and Polynesia. In most areas, this new
breed, called Austronesian, replaced existing populations thanks to their
more advanced technology in tools, weapons and agricultural skills. But in
New Guinea, the majority of the long-established Papuans successfully
resisted assimilation by the Austronesians who established themselves
only on some nearby islands and coastal strips.
The next great step in Irian's history was the
"sweet potato revolution". Plant geneticists still have not established an
accurate date for the introduction of the sweet potato to New Guinea, but
the impact of this new tuber revolutionised the population distribution and
resulted in large increases. The sweet potato, unlike taro and other
previously planted crops, grows well above the 1,500 metre line of altitude.
This crucial fact placed its cultivation beyond the normal range of the
malarial mosquito which had - up to then - kept down the number of humans.
The intensive agricultural technique of planting the sweet potato resulted
in great yields which also helped to increase the population in Irian's
highlands.
The island of New Guinea was "discovered" in
the early 16th century for the European world as a by-product of the search
for the spice islands. But whites hardly ever landed - let alone go inland -
until well into the 19th century. About all that was known was that slaves,
along with birds of paradise, were the chief exports and that the Sultan of Tidore claimed some ill-defined parts of western Irian. When Britain - and
later Germany - started claiming parts of eastern New Guinea, Holland
asserted her ownership of the western part of the island. Most of Irian's
interior was a geographical blank until the early years of this century when
a series of expedition, led by Dsuitch military forces, first ventured for
inland. The Baliem Valley - with over 50,000 inhabitants - was not
discovered until 1938 and even today many areas are still "tierra
incognita".
World War Two put New Guinea on the map of
world consciousness with a series of vicious battles during which the
Japanese were defeated by the Allied forces under General Douglas MacArthur.
After the war and the independence of Indonesia, Holland tried to hang on to
Dutch West New Guinea. Military engagements and diplomatic pressures forced
the turning over of Irian to the United Nations which, after a short
transition period, handed the territory over to Indonesia in 1961.
Indonesia's province of Irian Jaya,
representing 22 per cent of its total land mass, spreads over the western
half of New Guinea which is the second largest island in the world (after
Greenland). The shape of this 800,000 sq. km island, north of Australia,
resembles a squatting bird with a neck which narrows to a few kilometres
before joining a large peninsula called the Bird's Head. A cordillera of
mountains runs the length of New Guinea, topped by Puncak Jaya which, at
4,884 metres, is the highest peak between the Himalayas and the Andes. The
rugged highlands which surround the mountains hold most of the population.
Closely packed, radically different ecological zones result from the
combination of tropics, steeply rising elevations and weather patterns.
Rivers play no role in Irian's economy but two drainage systems dominate the
geography. In the north, the Memberamo River cuts through low hills to split
in two, forming a huge area called the Meervlakte (Sea-lake). Most of the
rainfall from the highlands ends up in the Memberamo or the Baliem river
which runs through the only gorge of the central range towards the south
where it feeds one of the world's largest swamplands.
New Guinea and Australia share the Sahul
continental shelf which was never linked to the Asian land mass during the
Ice Ages, even when sea levels dropped some 120 metres. Mammals thus evolved
in isolation, in the marsupial form. It was man who introduced the common
placentals like dogs, pigs (and recently, deer) to complement native
kangaroos, bandicoots and cuscus.
Saltwater crocodiles, some over 7 metres in
length, are Irian's largest animals. One such monster was credited in the
1950s with 55 confirmed human victims. Other awesome reptiles include tree
pythons and the death adder whose hide brings on almost instant fatalities.
Huge bird-eating spiders grace sticky, sheet-like webs. Irian's largest
bird, the flightless cassowary, can handle spiders of any size as well as
careless hunters who are disembowelled by a swift kick and sharp claws.
There are also parrots, lorries, cockatoos, the Victoria crowned pigeon and
the birds of paradise with their spectacular plumage. The soils of Irian are
thin and most susceptible to erosion despite a luxurious cover of
vegetation. While logging has started in earnest, the spread of tropical
vegetation is still huge, second only to the Amazon Plant life includes
insect-eating pitcher plants, phosphorescent fungi and 2,700 species of
orchids. The most useful tree, the sago palm, has a trunk of pure starch
which is the staple food for most swamp-dwelling tribes. At the other end of
the elevation scale, high altitudes foster a tropical-alpine vegetation of
tree ferns and other panorama, adding an aura of mystery to a place that
remains untouched by the outside world.
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Biak Island, in Cenderawasih Bay off Irian's north
coast, has the province's best air communications, international flights to
and from Hawaii and Los Angeles as well as jets to Jayapara, Bali and other
points west. Small planes also reach several towns in Irian from Biak. But
few foreigners have gotten off from their LA-Bali flights in Biak -
information is scarce and facilities are far from international standards.
The situation is due to change with promotion
campaign and the construction of new hotels. But there is no season to wait
until then, the existing hotels are far from being dumps, meals can be
excellent and costs are very reasonable. Mass tourism is still a long way
off. Tropical islands, fulfilling all the cliches, lie scattered around Biak.
Most travellers glimpse them only from the air - the blending of shades of
the seas from dark blue to light turquoise, the thin fringe of waves and
sand, then the coconut palms. Some of the islands hold little villages
perched on stilts, others are uninhabited. With a bit of time, you can reach
any of them. Cenderawasih Bay hold four major islands and lots of little
ones. Biak dominates politically and concentrates facilities and
infrastructure. Yapen Island, long and mountainous,
boasts of birds of paradise, a decent little hotel and daily flights from
Biak. Unfortunately, the hotel and landing strip are on opposite sides of
Yapen from the birds. Numfor Island, flat with a
couple of deep lagoon,s also received flights from Biak but holds no
commercial facilities for travellers. Supiori, separated from Biak by a
long, narrow sea-passage, can only be reached by boat and once there, as on
Numfor, one depends on local hospitality which are generously available.
Although thoroughly missionised, many villages on
all the islands can perform traditional dances with a day or two's notice.
On Biak, this includes five-walking, an ancient ritual recently revised at
Adoki village, close to town. Also near Biak town, visit a cave called Goa
Bissari, one of many used by the Japanese during World War Two during the
furious battle for control of this island. Biak Island can easily be
explored as three paved roads lead out of town, to Bosnik in the east, to
Wardo in the opposite direction and to Korem in the north. From Bosnik (or
Biak town) take a canoe to one of the close-by Padaido Islands, little
jewels in the sea. Near Wardo, hop into any outrigger for the best magical
trip up a river, to Wapsdori waterfall. From Korem, the paved road continues
along Biak's north-east coast for the most wonderful seascape and village
scenery in this part of the world. Stop at Warsa village where you can see
boys who gleefully jump off the top a 15-metre waterfall.
There is more frequently minibus traffic everywhere
on market days, and a chance to catch a boat ride from the end-of-the-road
to those villages which can only be reached by sea. Markets are usually on
Wednesday and Saturday but check on this before heading out. Another
alternative is to hire your own local boat. Try the fishermen's cooperative
or a travel agency in Biak town for a double-hulled, outbound-powered
catamaran with an open, thatch-roofed little cabin amidships. Take along a
sack of rice, mask, snorkel and fins. The crew will provide the fish. Go
exploring for several days for the trip of a lifetime - but now between
November and March, the season of heavy seas.
The Gateway to the Valley
Jayapura, the capital of the province of Irian Jaya,
is the gateway for the Bailem Valley. The flights schedules make it
impossible for travellers to plan for a same-day connection from anywhere to
Wamena. Baliem's principal town, even if you already have the necessary "surat
jalan" or travel permit. And the fact that the airport is located some
40 km from town doesn't simplify life either. The logical way to proceed is
to land as early as possible in the day to allow enough time to obtain the
sarat jalan and a ticket to Wamena. The police station where you must
go for the travel permit as well as the Merpati Airlines office are located
in downtown Jayapura, on either side of the Hotel Matoa. The Merpati office
closes at 3 p.m. on normal working days, earlier on Friday, Saturday and
Sunday. And as the daily 7 a.m. Flight to Wamena tends to be full, you might
not be able to obtain a ticket for the next day. A second flight is
sometimes added, provided there are enough passengers, but there is no
guarantee of this happening. So you might well be stuck in Jayapura for a
couple of days. But don't despair: the Baliem is worth the wait and the
Jayapura are itself holds enough interest to keep you gainfully occupied.
The main part of Jayapura, a city with a population
of about 100,000 lies on Yos Sudarso (formerly Hambold) Bay. There is a
splendid view of the city from the base of a communications tower, located
on a steep hill just in back of the harbour. To the east, Hamadi suburb
offers numerous souvenir stalls, and Yotefa Bay with Engros village where
the church and all the houses are built on stilts. To the west, there's a
decent swimming beach called Base G (pronounced as Bestegi), a popular spot
with locals on weekends. A short distance from town, you can visit one of
several crocodile farms. On the road to the airport, the University of
Cenderawaih has a good museum of artefacts. On the same road, the Museum
Negeri features excellent ethnographic displays. Boats are available to
motor around Lake Sentani - try to land on Apayo Island where local
craftsmen produce bark cloth paintings and carvings in the traditional
Santani style. A paved road heading into the hills winds through an army
camp to the MacArthur movement, erected to commemorate the location of the
general's headquarters. On a clear day, the surrounding views from here are
spectacular.
INTO THE CENTRAL
HIGHLANDS
The fertile Baliem Ground Valley
lies in Irian's highlands an hour's flights from Jayapura. It's cool here,
at some 1,400 metres or more. Early morning clouds and mist often hide the
surrounding heights, giving a timeless and mystical atmosphere which slowly
dissipates with the sun's rays. The Baliem river, of rich creamy brown
tones, snakes through the valley before pouring out through a gorge to the
south and the Arafara Sea. This is home to the Dani tribe, the most famous
of Irian's interior. These former-warriors lived in isolation until they
were discovered in 1938. They grew stupendous harvests of their staple sweet
potatoes in the rich valley soil with the help of an efficient irrigation
system. As the men had plenty of time left over after the gardening chores
were done (most of which were done by the women anyway), ritual warfare
developed to a degree seldom matched anywhere.
Today, after over 50 years of contact with the
outside world, the Dani's life-style has changed somewhat. But many of the
men still wear distinctive penis sheaths, and the women in grass skirts,
agriculture is still centred around sweet potatoes. Pigs and women remain a
man's most valued possessions. Occasional ritual battles result in dozens of
casualties to arrows, spears and the odd imported axe. Funerals and marriage
rites have changed little over the years. A visit to the region of the
Baliem Valley can be as tame or adventurous. For those who need a degree of
creature comforts, Wamena has acceptable hotels and meals, and locally
organised day trips which could include a Dani ritual. Hardier souls can set
out by public transport, then trek to many a fascinating village. Guides are
essential for these jaunts where one has to rely on local hospitality (small
payment is appreciated) and take victuals unless you can survive on a
straight diet of sweet potatoes.
Wamena, with several thousand
people, is the only urban centre in the Baleim. All flights land here, the
highlands' main airstrip. Foreigners will have their travel permit checked
here upon arrival. The district's principal government officials all live in Wamena, along with many students of the high school and teacher training
college. The roman Catholic Church has its highland headquarters here.
There's a post office, a book and telephone service. And best of all,
there's the daily market. In the early hours of dawn, the Dani from miles
around begin to drift to the market. Most of the locals bring surplus sweet
potatoes and vegetables such as tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers and cabbage
along with pineapple and a variety of bananas. Souvenirs like bows and
bunches of multipurpose arrows, each for a different kind of game, including
humans can be bought. Other items include penis sheaths, stone axes and
cowrie shells, formerly used as money.
There are a few traditional Dani villages near
Wamena. The nearest, Pugima, can be reached in an hour's stroll for a first
taste of local culture. Jiwika, some twenty kilometres away, is linked by a
good road and frequent public transportation. En route to Jiwiika, all tours
stop to see the mummy of Akima, the smoke dried remains of a powerful war
chief who has access to the world of spirits. There is also another mummy,
not so popular but cheaper to photograph. A night but basic losmen at
Jiwika makes a good base to explore this section of the valley. An hour's
steep climb leads to a brine pool from where salt is still extracted in the
traditional way. The road continues out of Jiwika, with caves and villages
along the way. This road will, someday, link with one being built from
Jayapura.
To the south of Wamena, a road leads part of the
way to Kurima, at the head of the Baleim Gorge. Paths along the gorge lead
to the Yala tribe who saw their first missionaries only a generation ago. On
the other side of the Baleim Valley from Jiwika, a road of sort leads to
Pyramid at the northern entrance to the valley. Before Pyramid, side paths
head into the mountain, past Dani villages to uninhabited lands where Lake
Habbema and the snow-capped Mount Trikora are located. Pyramid, a Protestant
Missionary Centre, lies on the main paths leading out of the Baliem Valley
to the territory of the Western Dani. The sub-district centre of Karubaga
can be reached in three or four days on a good path. If you don't feel like
trekking back, Merpati has a couple of schedule flights a week from Karubaga
to Wamena and there are also occasionally missionary flights. All, if you
are up to it, you can keep hiking out of Karubaga to Bokondini and onto Tiom
to the west.
The land of the Asmat tribe, centred around the
town of Agats, has been off limits to travellers in the past. Only Agat
itself has been opened up recently. There is an excellent museum with
world-class carvings available, however, it is hardly worth the trip if you
cannot move around. Most of the swamp-dwelling Asmat are christianised and
wear tattered western clothing. Other interesting tribes, some of which
still practice cannibalism, live way inland and are very inaccessible. High
transportation costs in outboard-powered dugouts and days of monotonous
motoring in malarial swamps make these places for explorers only. Also for
the specialists are several spots along the south coast of Papua where cave
paintings are found, similar to those of the Australian aborigines. Below
Puncak Jaya is the world's most spectacular mine owned by Freeport
Indonesia, however, entry to this copper mine is by invitation only. Much
easier to reach are Sorong, located at Papua's western most tip and
Manokwari, on the shore of Cenderawasih Bay. Sorong, an old oil town, has a
great seascape in front and offers access to the region of the Bird's Head.
Manokwari, the site of the first mission in Papua, both of a couple of
beautiful islands just outside its bay. There are also flights from there to
the Anggi Lakes, to beautiful bodies of water located in the Arfak
Mountains.
Dutch Rule
In 1660 the Dutch recognised the
sultan of Tidore's sovereignty over New Guinea island, and because the Dutch
held power over Tidore (the Sultan's territory) New Guinea theoretically became
Dutch. The British unsuccessfully attempted to e3stablish a settlement near
Menokwari in 1793, but by 1824 Britain and the Netherlands agreed that the
western half, Dutch New Guinea, would become part of the Dutch East Indies. In
1828 the Dutch established a token settlement in Lobo (near Kaimana) but it also
failed miserably. About 27 years later the first missionaries, Germans,
established a settlement on an island near Manokwari.
The Dutch didn't try to develop the
province again until 1896, when settlements were set up ion Manokwari and
Fak-Fak in response to perceived Australian ownership claims from the eastern
half of New Guinea island. The province continued to be virtually ignored,
except by mining companies from the USA and Japan, which explored the rich oil
reserves during the 1930s.
World War II
After the bombing of Pearl Harbour,
the Dutch declared war on Japan, so the province, as part of the Dutch East
Indies, inevitably assumed importance in the battle for the Pacific. (Some
Indonesians welcomed the Japanese as Asian liberators who would eradicate the
hated Dutch colonialists.)
In early 1944 a four-phase push, led
by the US general Douglas MacArthur, was launched from what is now PNG to
liberate Dutch New Guinea from Japanese occupation. The Allies were for from
optimistic: this part of the world was almost completely undeveloped,
inhospitable and uncharted.
A village in the Baliem
Valley, one of the most accessible of the highland areas
Phase one, the capture of Hollandia
(Jayapura), was the largest amphibious operation of the war in the south-western
Pacific and involved 60,000 Allied troops. (Numeroud WWII monuments and relics
in and around Jayapura are testament to this event.) The second phase, to
capture Sarmi, saws strong resistance from the Japanese.
The third phase was the capture of
Pulau Biak (primarily to control the airfield) and nearby Pulau Numfork, on the
way to Sorong. Several hard battled were fought on Biak, exacerbated by Allied
intelligence severely underestimating the Japanese strength. The fourth and
final phase was the successful push to the Japanese air bases on Palau Morotai,
off northern Halmabera, and then towards the Philippines.
Asmat tribesmen showing
their highly prized Asmat shields
Along the south cost, the Allies
fought for control of Merauke because of fears that it would be used as a base
for Japanese air attacks against Australia. Fak-Fakj, which was also the size of
battles with the Japanese, has probably the best range of untouched WWII relics
in the province.
Facts
Major City: Jayapura
Main Industries: Agriculture,
fishing, oil, mining
Land Area: 421, 981 square
kilometres
Highest Peak: Puncak Jaya (5,050
meters)
Population: 2m7 million
Main Languages: Bahasa
Indonesia, Dani, Yali, Ekari, Biak
Main Religions: Christianity,
Islam
Irian
Jaya or Papua?
When the Portuguese first
sighted the island now shared by Papua and Papua New Guinea (PNG) in 1511 they
called it iihas dos Papuas (island of the Fuzzy Hairs), from the Malay word
papuwah. Later, Dutch explorers called the island New Guinea (because of the
black-skinned people reminded them of the inhabitants of Guinea in Africa) and
named the western half Dutch New Guinea. When sovereignty was transferred to
Indonesia, the province was renamed Irian Barat (West Irian) and then Irian Jaya;
Jaya means "victorious" in Bahasa Indonesia and irian means "hot
land rising from the sea" in the Biak language.
To placate the growing
separatist movement, the Indonesian government agreed to rename the province
Papua on 26 December 2001. To add to the confusion, many Papuan activists, and
some International NGOs, refer to it as West Papua.
Indonesia Takes Over
In 1945, the
Dutch wrenched back the territory from the Japanese and used it as a place of
exile. The infamous Boven Digul camp (in Tanahmerah) was established as a prison
for Indonesian nationalists. Following international pressure, the Dutch were
forced to withdraw from the Dutch East Indies (which became Indonesia) after
WWII, but still clung to Dutch New Guinea. In an attempt to stop Indonesia from
gaining control, the Dutch encouraged Papuan nationalism and began building
schools and colleges to train Papuans in professional skills, with the aim of
preparing them for self-rule by 1970.
Following
WWII most Indonesian political factions claimed that Dutch New Guinea, like the
rest of the former Dutch East Indies, should be part of Indonesia. Throughout
1962 Indonesian forces infiltrated the province, but with little success. The
Papuan population failed to welcome the Indonesians as liberators and either
attacked them or handed them over to the Dutch. However, US pressure eventually
forced the Dutch to capitulate abruptly in august 1962. A vaguely worded
agreement in that year under United Nations (UN) auspices required that
Indonesia allow the Papuans to determine, by the end of 1969, whether they
wanted independence or to remain within the Indonesian republic. So in 1969, an
'Act of Free Choice' was 'supervised' by the UN. The Indonesian government,
however, suddenly declared that it would use the procedure of m by which a
consensus of 'elders' would be reached.
In July 1969
the Indonesian government announced that the assemblies in the Merauke,
Jayawijaya and Paniai districts had unanimously decided to become part of
Indonesia. And West Irian (as it was then known) became Indonesia's 26th
province. It now consists of ten districts, with capitals at Sorong, Manokwari,
Biak, Serui, Nabire, Jayapura, Timika, Merauke, Wamena and Fak-Fak.
Papuan
Opposition
Even before
the 'Act of Free Choice', the Indonesians faced violent opposition from the
Papuans. In 1969 rebellions broke out on Pulau Biak and Enarotali in the
Western Highlands. Between 1977 and the mid-1980s, occasional conflict erupted
in the mountains around the Baliem Valley, at Tembagapura (sight of the US-run
Freeport mine), and in remote areas of the Paniai District. After a short lull,
anti-Indonesian activity recommenced. In 1995, members and sympathisers of the
major independence group, the Free Papua Movement stormed the Indonesian
consulate in Vanimo, just over the border in Papua New Guinea and took to the
streets in Tembagapura and Timika. In 1996, about 2000 Papuans rioted for
several days and burned Pasar Abepura market in suburban Jaypura, resulting in
several deaths. In the same year several Europeans and Indonesian researchers
were kidnapped in a remote part of the Baliem Valley. The Europeans were
released unharmed four months later but two Indonesian hostages were killed by
the three Papua Movement. By late 1998, the post-Soeharto government indicated a
willingness to listen to separatists and reduced the military presence in the
province. In December 2001, the province was officially renamed Papua and
significant concessions were offered by Jakarta with increased autonomy and a
reinvestment of 80% of the revenue from Papua into the province.
But most
separatists still wanted total independence and demilitarisation by Indonesia.
Papuans are also still angry because the Indonesian government continued to sell
parts of the province for logging, mining and other commercial purposes without
compensation or consultation. They also resent the occasional brutal responses
of the Indonesians to political dissent. The government's proposed division of
the province into three - Central, East and West Papua - has been opposed by
some Papuan activists and may worsen the separatists problem. The final decision
on this has been delayed.
Transmigrasi
The
Indonesian policy of transmigrasi is also one of the reasons for continuing
unrest in Papua. Over one-third of Papua's population originates from outside
the province, mainly from Java, Bali and Sulawesi. Most of the trans-migrants
live in settlements near the main towns of Jayapura, Merauke, Monokwari, Nabire
and Sorong. As Papua represents about 22 per cent of Indonesia's total
territory, but only about one per cent of its population, the Indonesian
government continues to move thousands of people to Papua from other,
over-crowded islands. Poor locations and lack of planning for many existing
settlements indicate that the main thrust of transmigrasi is less for the
benefit of the trans-migrants than to make the province truly "Indonesian".
Irian Jaya (Papua)
